The Ultimate Hongu Onsen Guide: Yunomine, Kawayu, & Watarase

Hongu Onsen Guide: What to Know (Hongu Town vs. The 3 Villages)

Deciphering place names in Japan can be confusing. To help you plan the best visit, first, it's important to clarify the "Hongu Onsen" area. Hongu itself is the central town, is of course the location of the Kumano Hongu Grand Shrine of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage, and has many excellent lodgings (ryokan and minshuku) that feature their own private hot spring baths. However, the region's most famous and unique public onsen experiences are located in three distinct "onsen villages" just a short bus ride away: Yunomine, Kawayu, and Wataze. These are all within Hongu Town, but are individually well known as well--precisely why the Hongu onsen guide is an essential part of your planning.

Yunomine Onsen: The UNESCO Heritage Soak

Yunomine Onsen is one of Japan's oldest hot springs, deeply connected to the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage. Its main attraction is the Tsuboyu, a small, private bath in a wooden cabin over a creek. It is famous for being the world's only bathable UNESCO World Heritage site, which visitors can use for 30-minute time slots on a first-come, first-served basis.

Yunomine is a sulphery hot spring that bubbles up at 90 degrees C. Sulpher onsens are widely considered to be the best for the skin.

Thanks to the high temperature of the spring, it's possible to cook eggs and vegetables directly in the water. Visitors can buy ingredients from a shop nearby and cook them as they take in the atmosphere of this small valley town.

Kawayu Onsen: The Wild River Bath

Kawayu Onsen offers a unique, wild experience, as hot spring water bubbles up directly from the bed of the Oto River. For most of the year, visitors can dig their own personal "rotenburo" (open-air bath) in the gravel riverbed, mixing the hot spring water with the cool river water. In winter (December-February), a section of the river is sectioned off to create the Sennin-buro, a single, giant open-air bath.

Kawayu's spring water contains sodium bicarbonate chloride and is about 70 degrees C.

Wataze Onsen: The Spacious Watarase Open-Air Resort

The neighborhood of Wataze is dominated by the Watarase Onsen complex, a more modern and spacious resort, making it a popular choice for families and hikers who want to rest their legs a little more. It is most famous for having one of Western Japan's largest and most impressive public rotenburo (open-air baths), set in a beautiful natural landscape. It also offers numerous private baths available for reservation.

Watarase's spring is a sodium bicarbonate chloride spring, and is about 80 degrees C.

At-a-Glance: Which Hongu Onsen Village is Right for You?

• Go to Yunomine Onsen for: History, tradition, the unique experience of bathing in the Tsuboyu UNESCO site, and a very photogenic valley village.

• Go to Kawayu Onsen for: A unique, natural experience. Choose summer/spring to dig your own bath or winter for the giant Sennin-buro.

• Go to Wataze Onsen for: A relaxing, modern resort feel with large baths, family-friendly options, and bookable private onsens.

  
  

How to Visit: Access, Day Trips & Onsen Hopping

All three onsen villages are located within the Hongu town area and are not easily walkable from each other, but they are well-connected by local buses (operated by Ryujin and Meiko bus lines). It is entirely possible to "onsen hop" and visit all three in a single day.

Essential Knowledge (Don't Miss These!)

• Yunomine (Tsuboyu): You cannot book the Tsuboyu in advance. You must go to the ticket booth in person to get a numbered ticket for your 30-minute time slot.

• Kawayu (Sennin-buro): The giant Sennin-buro (open Dec-Feb) is a public space. There may be simple changing areas available nearby the river, and there is a public toilet with clean and private changing areas nearby. Bathing suits are required in both the large bath in the winter as well as for river play in other seasons.

• Watarase: You can rent out private hot springs to relax in here.