An Unforgettable Detour: Serenity at a Hidden Kumano Mountain Waterfall
- letsgo71
- Sep 3
- 3 min read
Introduction
The Ohechi route of the Kumano Kodo, which follows the West coast of Wakayama, led us up a moutainside to the little village of Wabukagawa. Our guide, a young local named K, led us off the main road, if you can call it that, and into a quiet corner that he's developing. As we followed a small river into a lush forest, we were surrounded by the sound of the gentle rush of water. Ahead of us was a secluded waterfall, a small pocket of serenity hidden deep in the mountains. This detour was a reminder that the Kumano region offers so much more than its famous trails.
Stepping Back in Time in Wabukagawa
Our guide, K, has a deep love for the outdoors—fishing, camping, biking, and hiking are his life. He’s even in the process of converting some local land into a day-use and overnight campground for adventurers.
Sharing a meal and conversation around a crackling fire.
He led us past the stone ruins of an ancient family home, a place whose history is a physical part of the village. K explained that the current elderly landowner's grandfather was a merchant here, and as I looked at the remaining walls and stairs, I couldn't help but wonder what life was like one or two hundred years ago. Did the merchant's children also jump off this same waterfall? They certainly would have eaten their own rice and vegetables, plus other wild and cultivated foods like chestnuts, tea, and citrus from the surrounding hills and fields. It’s a powerful thought to stand where a family once lived and imagine the simple, daily rhythms that have played out here for generations.
Drink from the Source
As we followed the path to the waterfall, the air grew cooler and the sound of the water became constant. The water in the river is so pure it's drinkable, and K pointed out that the plants and animals living in it, such as rare mosses and shrimp, were evidence of its cleanliness. It felt incredible to be in a place untouched by modernity.
When we reached the waterfall, the evening sun filtered through the deep forest, casting a soft, golden light on the water. We jumped in, and the cool water washed away the summer doldrums.
Kumano Mountain Waterfall in Wabukagawa, on the Ohechi Route in Susami
A Shared Meal and New Ideas
We built a small campfire a little way away from the river, and put on water to boil. The kids caught a couple long-armed shrimp from the river. It wasn't enough for a meal, but they said they were delicious. The main meal was standard camp food: instant noodles! I noticed that the day-use people from the city spent all their time fishing, while the locals seemed more focused on tending the fire and just enjoying the broader environment.
K spent some time telling me about his ideas for new activities for future Japan rural tourism groups. I'll be visiting this little corner of Wabukagawa through the other seasons to see how it changes.
Making the most of the cool, clean river water on a warm day.
Returning
While the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage is a profound journey, the true spirit of the region lies in these moments of authentic, off-the-beaten-path discovery. Our guided trips are designed to help you uncover these hidden gems, combining the famous trails with personal adventures that you won’t find in a guidebook.
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